How Others See Us: Writing About Scotland

With such a diasporic heritage, it is no wonder that Scots have written volumes about foreign parts. But what have others had to say about Scotland? English writer, journalist and spy Daniel Defoe was sent to Edinburgh in 1706 to help prepare the the Scots for the 1707 Act of Union. His account of his travels across Scotland and the UK was published as A Tour Through the Whole Island of Great Britain in 1726 (see also Defoe in Scotland: A Spy Among Us). He was not particularly flattering about Scotland, but he admits the possibility of improvement:

"We began to see that Scotland was not so naturally barren, as some people represent it, but, with application and judgement, in the proper methods of improving lands, might be made the equal, not England only, but even the richest, most fruitful, most pleasant, and most improv'd part of England."

(Contrast this with an earlier passage: "From this bridge we enter upon a most desolate, and, in winter, a most frightful moor for travellers... was but a poor reception for Scotland to give her neighbours".)

Perhaps the most famous account of travelling in Scotland is Dr Samuel Johnson's A Journey to the Western Isles of Scotland. Johnson was persuaded, at the age of 63, to travel to the Scottish Hebrides by his friend James Boswell. Boswell, 30 years Johnson's junior, also wrote his account of their travels, and together they are collectively known as the Journey to the Hebrides.

Johnson was willing to travel, and to see a different way of life, but, like Defoe, he carried his own prejudices.

"That the primitive manners are continued where the primitive language is spoken, no nation will desire me to suppose, for the manners of the mountaineers are commonly savage, but they are rather produced by their situation than derived from their ancestors."

A Journey... was first published in 1773 to great acclaim. It was a time of change in the Highlands and Islands, following the Jacobite rebellion and the subsequent suppression of Highland ways, the Gaelic language, and the beginnings of the Romanticisation of 'Scotland'.

Like Defoe, Johnson saw 'potential' in the Scots, but also, on the island of Raasay:

"We found nothing but civility, elegance and plenty."

Johnson's companion, James Boswell, was an Edinburgh man well travelled throughout Europe and was an acquaintance of Voltaire and Rousseau, and had made a pilgrimage to Rome. Before A Journey..., he was recognised for his Account of Corsica in 1768; afterwards, he became most famous for his biography of Johnson, The Life of Samuel Johnson.

The early romantic image of the Scots Highlanders suggested in A Journey... blossomed in the Victorian era, with Queen Victoria leading the way. Inspired in part by the historical novels of Sir Walter Scott, she made three tours of Scotland before, in 1848, purchasing and rebuilding Balmoral Castle in Royal Deeside. Queen Victoria wrote of her travels in her diary, Leaves from the Journal of Our Life in The Highlands from 1848 to 1861. She came to Scotland for the landscape and the solitude, but she also appreciated the people she met en route:

"The Prince Highly appreciated the good breeding, simplicity, and intelligence, which makes it so pleasant and even instructive to talk to them."

For a wider discussion on Queen Victoria in Scotland, see On The Trail of Queen Victoria in the Highlands by Andy Wightman.

In the early twentieth century, England's HV Morton was one of the most prolific and popular journalists and travel writers. His In Search of Scotland and its sequel In Search of Scotland Again was very popular in the 1920s and 30s. His entertaining anecdotes include 'the most grotesque signpost in the British Isles':

"The Village of Glencoe Scene of the Famous Massacre Teas and Refreshments, Tobacco and Cigarettes"

The Chinese writer, calligrapher, artist and poet Chiang Yee spent many years travelling in Europe and America, and wrote under the name 'The Silent Traveller'. The Silent Traveller in Edinburgh is a lyrical book of art, poetry and peace written during the Second World War. He was 'dazzled' by Edinburgh, despite the wartime shortages, and Silent Traveller in Edinburgh is perhaps the best loved of his many travel books.

  • Cover scan of Defoe In Scotland
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    Defoe In Scotland: A Spy Among Us - Paperback - Anne McKim
    'Defoe in Scotland' introduces and presents a selection of writings Defoe produced in and about Scotland.
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    A Journey To The Hebrides - Paperback - Samuel Johnson; James Boswell
    Samuel Johnson and James Boswell spent the autumn of 1773 touring the Highlands and Western Islands of Scotland. Both kept detailed notes, which, gathered together here in one volume, provide insights into the areas and the personalities of both.
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    On The Trail Of Queen Victoria In The Highlands - Paperback - Ian Mitchell
    Part of a series of guides looking at key figures and themes, this work follows the trail of Queen Victoria on her numerous visits to the Highlands. It contains photographs from the Washington Wilson collection.
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    The Silent Traveller In Edinburgh - Paperback - Yee Chiang
    Exiled from China in 1933 and separated from his wife and children, Chiang Yee spent over 40 years travelling the world. In his own words, he was 'dazzled' by Edinburgh and this book paints a picture of the city and its people in the 1940s.

Dr Samuel Johnson

Dr Samuel Johnson
© Hulton Getty

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